Moy Moy Helsingfors, Privet Leningrad

I've been spoiled. English isn't obligatory in Russian schools. Russia doesn't put English on their street signs or their underground, especially those around the train station. As much as I've fallen for St. Petersburg, Russia hasn't gone out of its way to make me more comfortable.

A word about Helsinki before I gush about St. Petersburg:

It's hard to get a feel for a city after only 4 days. Understanding a city takes time and I was only in Helsinki for two day, taking into account all the time spent in Tallinn and Suomenlinna. But I have to say the Fins seem to have it figured out. My host Jim spent a lot of time describing the idiosyncrasies of Finnish culture. It's a culture of appreciation and care. Like many European countries which have respect for the individual, Finland maintains an egalitarian system heavy on education and mandated time off. In Helsinki the trains run on time and locations, streets, methods of transport, and signs are laid out logically and clearly. Throw in the unique sense of style: simple, elegant, modern, utilitarian, and you have a very attractive and easy aesthetic. And the people couldn't be more friendly.

St. Petersburg couldn't be less user-friendly. No one seems to speak English well. There's not much English on the signs, which is fine in most European countries, except that Russia has a different alphabet. This made getting around on the underground a real experience.

Finland as an Island

As an eighties baby, it's hard to imagine that some counties weren't always countries. Finland is one of them. Their history is not a pretty one. First they were part of Sweden for 600 years. Then they were part of Russia for a hundred years. Then, just when they gain their independence, they become entangled in a civil war.

There's a small island off the coast of Helsinki that embodies a lot of that history: Suomenlinna. First the Swedish built up the island waiting for a Russian attack. Then the Russians attacked and the island held. Then the Russians came back later and won. Then the Bolsheviks took over in 1917 and Finland declared independence. All the while Suomenlinna has been raised and razed. The results are quite special.

Finland's Mexico

Estonia is Finland's Mexico: dirtier, cheaper, and going there may result in stories that need not leave Estonia.

If you're Finnish, the city of Tallinn in Estonia has a lot going for it: there's a medieval downtown, the city sits on the water, and it's a pleasant two-hour ferry ride away. Despite all the perks, there seems to be one overwhelming draw. Booze.

The only thing Fins love more than drinking coffee is drinking alcohol. They seem to have a particular preference for cider. The Finnish government, in an effort to curb drinking, imposes a 22% tax on alcohol. The Estonian government does not. And Estonia still works on the Kroon system...at least until next year. So people go over and buy crates of alcohol.

A Very Finnish Solstice

Grab your globe. Hold it straight out in front of you and pretend you're the center of the universe...um, the sun. Then tilt the Earth correctly and remember that in June the bottom is tilted away. Now spin it. Can you see Finland the whole time? Exactly.

I arrived last night at around 12am and it felt like 6pm. Woke up at 5am and it felt like 1pm. The city is beautiful and modern. The people alternate between quiet and silent. I'm too jet lagged to put together a cohesive thesis on Finnish life: here are some pictures.